I have been away quite a lot recently. Ten days in Seychelles on honeymoon, a week at home followed by a week in Wilmington, North Carolina with my husband while he was working. Lu, my eight year old daughter, spent the time with my mum and with her dad, who had already arranged to take her away during the Easter holidays which is when I was in America. However, it still felt like an awfully long time since I had seen her properly so I suggested a mini-break for us both, a little adventure just her and I. Oh, the excitement. I took her away to the lovely The Great House at Sonning the year before last for a night and she thoroughly enjoyed it. This time around I chose The Lygon Arms Hotel in Broadway, the Cotswolds. I have had my eye on it for months, in fact, I made enquiries about having my wedding there when it was to be a small family affair. In the end, we went for a large wedding and held it at Vivien Leigh and Sir Laurence Olivier’s old home in Buckinghamshire, Notley Abbey. Oh how I adore Gone with the Wind, I walked down the aisle to its theme music. And as my husband and I are travelling back to the Carolinas and Georgia at the end of the month I shall definitely be visiting Margaret Mitchell’s house in Atlanta.
As my health has improved (that was then, this is now…) I could now drive for more than ten minutes without becoming exhausted and putting myself out of action for days I thought somewhere further afield would be lovely and the Cotswolds was perfect. We stayed for three nights, and Lu thought it might be nice to ask my husband to stay on the third night. The hotel is child and dog-friendly. I think her request was made mainly so he would bring the dog with him as she misses our mini dachshund, Livia, when she is not around. Also, children can use the swimming pool at the hotel Spa at certain times so Lu was keen to involve as many responsible adults as possible lest I got too tired to take her. She is a very clever girl, my 8 year old.
We arrived on a rainy Friday evening in May at about 7.30pm, later than planned after a few wrong turns on my part, and pulled into the gravel drive at the front of the beautiful foliage covered hotel on the main avenue in Broadway. We were greeted by the most charming chap dressed in country casual jeans and blazer and having explained our tardiness for our dinner reservation and the tired 8 year old he arranged a speedy check in and then gracefully directed me to carpark behind the hotel which was just in front of our cottage. Lu wanted to get changed first as she had packed a number of ‘evening’ outfits. She is her mother’s daughter.
It was a short stroll across a lane to the main hotel. I had informed them when I booked that I was coeliac (gluten free) and they said that it would not be a problem. It had been noted on my dinner reservation and the wait staff handled it perfectly. We were looked after by a wonderful woman called Lucia, the same name as my daughter so it boded well! I was taken through the menu and told they were happy to amend dishes if possible. There was a separate menu for children. The dining room itself is absolutely beautiful, both immense and intimate at the same time, a perfect combination.
Smoked salmon from the adult menu for us both to start, as well as some delicious olives. Steak (Lu) and lamb cutlets (for me) followed and we ended with fruit crumble which was already gluten-free, with ice cream, (me) and coffee (me) on one of the wonderful sofas found in the maze of lounges they have. It was all delicious and not one person suggested fruit salad as a pudding. I felt in very very safe hands. We ate in the restaurant for the following two nights also and it was just as lovely each time, the third night we were in a separate bar/dining area, as we had the dog with us but it was the same menu and service was just as lovely. As Lu is a very committed meat eater she ended up with steak from the adult menu on the third night which she devoured.
The cocktail list was super, and Lu and I took to having a cocktail in the bar before dinner, non-alcoholic for us both and when my husband arrived I plied him with the most amazing sounding ones on the alcohol-fuelled list. Try any of them, you really can’t go wrong.
We had breakfast each morning at the Broadway Deli, which I had found before we got to Broadway, as its website mentioned that it could cater for those with a gluten allergy and as luck would have it it was opposite the hotel. Full of picture-perfect looking fresh produce, cheeses, jams, pasta and the like, we didn’t have to wait for a table and having explained to the wait staff about my allergy I was told it was the policy for management to take allergy orders which is just amazing. I enquired about the toaster arrangements – toasting gluten-free bread in a toaster that is used for gluten-filled bread renders everything not gluten free!!! – and was assured that there was a separate toaster and preparation area for gluten free orders. I had the homemade beans on toast and two excellent strong cappuccinos as Lu has woken me up at about 5.30am in her enthusiasm to not miss the childrens swimming slot at the spa that started at about 9.30am I think. She had the most amazing doorstep bacon sandwich and tea. We returned again on the following 2 mornings and was not disappointed. Toast and marmalade for me, I was concerned about the use of the same jar by those have gluten toast and they happily opened a brand new jar for me, they make there own marmaladed and conserves which I can highly recommend.
The cottage itself had just been completed so there were no photos of it on the website yet but the rest of the hotel looked beautiful so I was willing to take a leap of faith. I was richly rewarded as it was a beautiful typically Cotswolds stone building, set over two floors, bedroom and huge dreamy bathroom upstairs and living area downstairs with a sofa bed, outside there was a little flagstoned patio area with table and chairs. I had originally booked a room in the main hotel for 2 nights but as it turned out it was the bank holiday weekend and Lu asked if we could stay for three nights and have Malcolm bring the dog for the third, as above. After a few emails, it turned out that I couldn’t have my original room in that combination but the cottage would be free though it was a bit more expensive and I decided to treat us. It also had two of my most favourite things that I almost require now when travelling – air conditioning and a Nespresso machine. I am not very good company without these. The coffee is necessary to take the edge off the chronic fatigue syndrome and the air conditioning is required for the horrid sweaty overheating I experience from my steroids.
The Spa was lovely, though I only saw the changing facilities and the pool, there are treatments available. The pool area is beautiful, with a jacuzzi at the far end and loungers for relaxing There were other families using it when we were there but it was not too crowded, we had a lovely time but I was very grateful for my husbands arrival early on Sunday so he could take her while I read the papers in the hotel lounge. I always worry that I’ll be struck down out of nowhere with the exhaustion caused by my illness, which is how it happens, without warning, so I try my best to conserve as much energy as I can so I can enjoy as much time with Lu as possible and not overdo it too much. The grounds of the hotel were immaculately kept and other rooms faced onto the main courtyard and had little seated areas, there was also a large enclosed garden area with benches that was perfect for taking Livia for a little roam.
As I spend most of my travel research looking for gluten-free places to eat I had found a lovely looking place in Moreton in March, about 15 minutes away called The Cotswold Tearoom which did gluten free cakes, my obsession. Lu and I love popped there for lunch on our first full day. Sweetcorn fritters with avocado tomato salsa for me, soup for her, all items are clearly marked gluten-free. I then had a huge gluten free scone with cream and jam. So delicious was it that we returned on our journey home for the scones and took some home with us. As well as a huge bag of cheese, olives, gluten-free crackers and condiments from the gorgeous The Cotswold Cheese Company next door.
Whilst in the area we had a little roam around Broadway and Moreton in Marsh, as well as Blockley, another nearby village and they were just beautiful. Though I left my heart in Broadway. I haven’t spent a huge amount of time in the area but took a jaunt to Cheltenham for the Literary Festival last year. I had booked four events but illness meant I only made it to one but it was super all the same. It is also the area that my husband and I have at the top of our list for moving to as we currently still live in separate houses, separate counties. We both have school age children, it’s complicated.
I would return to The Lygon Arms in a heartbeat, we were all very sad to leave, and though it isn’t cheap it was worth every single penny. It would make an amazing treat, and if I am lucky enough to ever go again I shall go without child or dog so I can take advantage of the adult time in the Spa and maybe a lie in.